• Coloring methods are in blue.
• Terms describing knit or woven fabrics are in green.
• Terms describing lace or net are in olive.
• Terms describing nonwovens are in gray.
• Finish types are in fuchsia.
• Embellishments are in brown.
• Design types or styles are in teal.
• Terms describing hand or appearance are in purple.
• Brand names are in red.

Abstract: refers to a design in the abstract style, i.e. one that represents a general form and not an accurate representation of a subject. 

Accordion: 1x1 rib knit alternating with a 2x2 rib. 

Acrylic coated: A fabric which has been coated, generally on the back, with acrylic resin to make it waterproof or downproof.

Albatross: A lightweight, plain weave fabric traditionally of wool or wool blends with a napped, fleecy surface . So named because the texture resembles the breast of an albatross. Usually light in color- used in infant's wear , sleep wear.

Alencon lace:A needlepoint lace on a fine net ground characterized by a heavy thread (cordonnet) outlining the design. Usually machine made but sometimes the cordonnet is inserted by hand.

Alligator skin: A design, printed or embossed, that suggests the characteristic texture of an alligator. 

Allover lace: general term for a wide lace in which the pattern covers the full width of the fabric . It is generally sold and cut in the same way as non lace fabrics.

Animal skin: refers to a design which suggests the skin of an animal . Leopard, tiger, zebra and giraffe are popular motifs.

Anti bacterial: finish that makes a fabric resistant to the growth of bacteria.

Anti Pill: A finish applied to fleece which involves shearing the surface so that the fabric is less likely to pill 

Antique Satin: a reversible fabric - one side looks like satin and the other side like shantung. It often has a dark warp which enhances the texture. Often used for draperies.

Antique Taffeta: A stiff plain weave fabric , often iridescent, with a slubbed weft. May be of silk or synthetics. 

Antron: brand of nylon fiber trademarked by the Du Pont Co.

Argentan lace: a needlepoint lace on a net ground similar to alencon lace but on a larger net and without the cordonnet outline thread of alencon.

Argyle: A design of various colored diamond shaped blocks on a single colored ground, usually crossed by lines in a diamond shape. Popular in sweaters and hosiery.

Art/Embroidery linen: a balanced plain weave fabric usually of linen or linen/cotton . It is made from smooth round yarns (not flattened by calendering) . Used as a base for embroidered table linen, pillowcases, also in drapes, slipcovers and some apparel. Also called embroidery crash. 

Astrakhan:a thick woven or knitted cloth often of wool with a surface of loops or curls, imitating the coat of an Astrakhan lamb. Also called poodle cloth. Used for coats and trimming.

Atlas: A warp knit fabric in which a set of yarns shifts diagonally one wale per course for several courses , then returns to the original position. 

Awning stripe: 1. a design of wide even stripes 2. a heavy canvas fabric with this design. May be yarn dyed or printed.

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Balanced Stripes: a design of stripes that are even in width and spacing. 

Bandanna: a print design characterized by white or brightly colored motifs on a dark or bright ground, most often red or navy. Done by discharge or resist printing but originally done in India by tie dyeing. 2. a fabric, usually cotton with such a design. 

Barathea: An indistinct twill or broken rib- usually a twilled hopsack weave- with a fine textured ,slightly pebbled surface . Often of silk or silk blended with wool, Used for neckties, women's fine suits and coats men's and women's evening wear.

Bark Cloth: Originally referred to fabric made from the bark of trees. Now the term is used to describe fabric with a surface texture resembling tree bark.

Barrier fabric: fabrics that are barriers to dust , dust mites and associated allergens. 

Basket stitch: A knit construction with mostly purl loops in the pattern courses to give a basket weave look 

Basket weave/Hopsack: A variation of plain weave in which 2 or more yarns in both the warp and weft are woven side by side to resemble a basket.

Batik: a traditional Indonesian dyeing process in which portions of fabric are coated with wax and therefore resist the dye. The process can be repeated to achieve multi-color designs. Fabric usually has a veined appearance where the dye has gone through the cracks in the wax.

Batiste: 1. A sheer, fine, soft, light weight, plain weave fabric usually of combed cotton or polyester/cotton. It often has lengthwise streaks due to the use of 2 ply yarns. Used for shirts blouses dresses nightwear and lingerie. 2. A lightweight smooth all wool fabric. 3.A sheer silk fabric. 

Beaded: Referring to a fabric embellished with beads. 

Beading lace: a machine made lace with a row of openwork holes designed for the insertion of a decorative ribbon.

Beaver Cloth: a high quality, heavy, soft wool cloth with a deep, smooth nap. Used in overcoats. 

Bedford Cord: a woven fabric constructed to show pronounced rounded cords in the warp direction with sunken lines between them. Used in trousers, uniforms, hats, upholstery. 

Beetled :a finishing process in which a fabric usually linen or cotton is pounded to produce a hard flat surface with a sheen. 

Bemberg: brand of cupramonium rayon. 

Bengaline: a durable plain weave fabric characterized by widthwise cords formed by using fine warp yarns and course weft yarns, Used in dresses, coats, suits, ribbons, draperies. 

Binche lace: A lace in which the lace motifs are appliquéd to a machine made net ground. Originally made in Binche Belgium. 

Birdseye: 1. a general term for a fabric with a surface texture of small, uniform spots that suggest bird's eyes. Can be woven or knit. 2 A design that suggests a bird's eyes. 

Blanket plaid: a large vividly colored plaid design such as those often found on blankets. 

Bleached: Chemical treatment to remove impurities and whiten the fabric. It can be done either in preparation for dyeing and finishing or to obtain clean whites in finished fabric.

Blitz: A light to medium weight woven fabric with a filament warp and spun weft. Often has a very fine crosswise rib. Common blends are acetate/rayon and polyester/rayon. 

Block printed: A hand printing method using wood, metal, or linoleum blocks. The design is carved on the blocks , one block for each color. The dye is applied to the block which is pressed or hammered against the fabric.

Blotch print: Refers to a print in which a large area of uniform color is printed. The printed ground is referred to as the blotch.

Bobbin lace: a handmade lace using a pillow to hold pins around which thread is intertwined. Bobbins are used to hold and feed the thread. Also called pillow lace or bobbinet. 

Boiled Wool: a wool or wool blend fabric, woven or knitted which has been given a course, crepey texture by heavy felting or by putting it in a high temperature bath.

Bonded : A fabric composed of 2 or more layers joined together with an adhesive ,resin, foam, or fusible membrane. 

Border: a design placed along the edge of the fabric or engineered in such a way that it will fall on the edge of the finished product. Border designs are frequently used in skirts and dresses.

Botanical: referring to designs dominated by motifs depicting plant life.

Boucle 1.a fancy yarn with an irregular pattern of curls and loops 2. A fabric made from boucle yarn. 

Bourdon lace: A machine made lace on a mesh ground usually in a scroll design outlined with a heavy cord.

Bourette: a fancy plied yarn with nubs and knots of another color.

Bourrelet: A double knit fabric with a rippled , corded texture running horizontally. 

Breathable coated : Refers to a coating that repels water but allows water vapor (thus perspiration) to pass through, allowing garments to be comfortable and waterproof . Used in garments for active wear and winter sports. 

Breton lace: Lace embroidered on an open net with heavy often brightly colored yarn. May be made by hand or machine. Said to have originated in the Breton region of France. 

Broadcloth: A fine tightly woven plain weave fabric with a faint rib . Usually of cotton or cotton blend but can be of any fiber. Frequently used in men's shirts. 2. a fine soft woven wool fabric, plain or twill weave, with a smooth napped face.

Brocade: A heavy rich- looking jacquard fabric with contrasting surfaces or a multicolor design . Used in upholstery , draperies evening wear. 

Brocatelle a jacquard fabric similar to brocade with the design in a raised appearance from being formed with a satin or twill weave. Used in draperies and upholstery.

Broken twill: A general term for twill weave fabrics in which the twill line changes direction. 

Brushed/Napped: A finishing process to raise a nap on surface of the fabric using wire brushes or other abrasive materials. 

Brushstroke: Refers to a print style in which color looks as if it had been applied with a brush.

Brussels lace: May be a bobbin or needlepoint lace usually on a machine made ground. Sometimes designs are appliquéd on the ground. As Brussels Belgium is important in the history of lace-making, many different types of lace are called Brussels lace. 

Buckram : A stiff , open weave, coarse fabric often used as an interlining to give a garment shape. Also used in hats, bookbinding.

Buckskin: A heavy satin weave fabric, often of fine Merino wool, with a smooth face 

Buffalo check: a bold check pattern with blocks of 2 or 3 contrasting colors. Often red and black in a twill weave. 

Bunting : A plain, drapey, loosely woven fabric most often used for flags and decoration. Also called banner cloth. 

Burlap/Hessian: A coarse open fabric made of jute used for upholstery lining and bagging . When dyed or printed it is used in drapery, wall coverings, upholstery.

Burn out: A fabric made of 2 fibers then printed with a chemical that dissolves one of the fibers thus creating a design .Often done on velvet.

Butcher's Linen: A strong, heavy, plain weave linen fabric with uneven, thick and thin yarns in both warp and weft - often used in tablecloths and aprons.

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Cable stitch: A knit fabric stitch that produces a design that looks like a heavy cord- common in sweaters and hosiery.

Calendered: A flat, smooth, glossy finish applied to the fabric by passing it through heavy rollers under pressure and usually heat. Cire, chintz, moire, & glazing are examples of calendered finishes. 

Calico: A light weight, plain weave fabric usually cotton or cotton blend typically printed with small, all over, brightly colored designs. Used frequently in aprons, quilts & curtains.

Cambric: A plain weave, traditionally light weight cotton fabric with a luster on the surface . Used for handkerchiefs underwear, shirts, aprons , tablecloths. 

Candlewick: A tufted pile fabric with a fuzzy surface that looks like chenille . It is made by looping a heavy plied yarn on a muslin base then cutting the loops. Used for bedspreads, robes, draperies.

Canton flannel: A heavy, warm, strong cotton or cotton blend fabric with a twill face and a brushed back . Used for nightwear, underwear, gloves, linings. Originally produced in Canton China. 

Canvas /Duck: A strong, firm, tightly woven, durable fabric usually of cotton but sometimes of linen, hemp or other fibers. It is usually plain weave but sometimes with a crosswise rib. It is produced in a variety of weights & used in a variety of products such as tents, awnings, sails, upholstery, footwear, jackets, trousers.

Cape net: a stiff heavy net which can be shaped when wet and holds that shape when dried . Used for hats. 

Carded: A yarn in which the fibers have been partially straightened and cleaned prior to spinning. The yarn is generally coarser and more uneven than a combed yarn.

Cardigan -full: A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with 2 sets of needles There is alternate knitting and tucking on one course then tucking and knitting on the next course. The fabric has the same look on both sides as every wale on both sides has both a held loop and a tuck loop. Also called polka rib. 

Cardigan- half: A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with knitting & tucking in alternate courses on one set of needles. The construction on the back is the reverse of the face . Also called royal rib.

Casement cloth: a general term for sheer, lightweight, open weave fabrics used for curtains and backing for heavy drapery.

Cationic: A type of dye used on acrylic or on modified polyester or modified nylon yarn . Often used to achieve cross dyed effects: Cationic dyeable yarn is woven in a pattern with regular yarn in the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in 2 baths, one for each of the types of yarn.

Cavalry twill: A sturdy woven fabric with a steep pronounced double twill line . Often of cotton or wool but may be any fiber.

Challis: a soft, lightweight, plain weave fabric with good drape. Often used for printed dresses and skirts. Most commonly wool or rayon but may be of cotton or other spun fibers.

Chambray: A lightweight, plain weave fabric, with a colored warp and white weft . Usually plain but may be in stripes, checks, or other patterns. Often used in shirts, dresses children's clothes. 

Chameleon: a 3 tone effect that changes with the angle of view . It is achieved by using a warp yarn of one color and double weft yarns of 2 different colors. It is often found in taffetas , poplins or failles of silk or made made filament yarns 

Chamois-like: a hand suggesting the soft pliable leather from the skin of the chamois goat.

Chantilly lace: A bobbin lace on a fine net ground characterized by delicate motifs of scrolls, vines, branches, and flowers outlined by a flat (cordonnet) yarn. Often in black. Originally made in Chantilly France.

Charmeuse: A soft lightweight woven satin fabric with good drape. It is made with high twist yarns, has a semi-lustrous face and a dull back . Often used for blouses, intimate apparel. 

Check: a small pattern of squares or rectangles. It may be printed, yarn dyed , cross dyed or woven into the fabric ( as a dobby or jacquard).

Cheesecloth: see Gauze/Cheesecloth.

Chenille: 1. A yarn with fuzzy pile protruding from all sides . It has a velvety caterpillar -like appearance . ( The term chenille is derived from the French word for caterpillar) 2. A fabric made with chenille yarn.

Cheviot: 1.A rough surfaced fabric of wool with a heavy nap. Used for coating. 2. A loosely woven tweed fabric with a shaggy texture . Cheviot was originally made from the wool of the cheviot sheep in the hills at the bordering England and Scotland.

Chevron . a design which incorporates herringbone elements of zigzag stripes or joined V's 

Chiffon: A lightweight , sheer, plain weave fabric with a dull surface, a soft hand , and good drape. It is made with fine high twisted yarns and has an even or close to even number of threads per inch in the warp and weft. Originally made in silk but now found in polyester and other man-made filament yarns. Used in dresses blouses, scarves, veils. 

Children's: refers to designs suitable for the children's market. 

Chinchilla: A thick, heavy, pile fabric with surface curls or nubs, originally made to suggest chinchilla fur . It is often double faced. It may be woven or knit and is often used as coating.

Chino: a sturdy, medium weight, twill fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend. It has often been used for summer weight military uniforms, sportswear and work clothes. It is often found in khaki and tan colors.

Chinoiserie: a old Chinese decorative style still used in textiles. 

Chintz: 1. A glazed solid or printed fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend 2. A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a multicolor print which may or may not be glazed. If it is unglazed it is called cretonne.

Chirimen: a Japanese term describing a dull crepe fabric made with a course yarn. Originally of silk but now found in man made filaments such as polyester. 

Circular knit: refers to fabrics knit on a circular knitting machine, i.e. one which has its needles arranged in a circle thus producing the fabric in tubular form . The fabrics may be sold tubular or slit and sold open width. A circular knitting machine may be used to produce full width fabrics or narrow shaped components such as for hosiery.

Cire: a finishing process that produces a high gloss on the surface on the fabric by passing it through heavy rollers (calendering) . Fabrics made of thermoplastic fibers like nylon or polyester are cired by calendering with heat and pressure alone. Other fabrics like rayons or silks are calendered with wax or other compounds.

Clip dot /Clip spot: a design effect created on a woven fabric by the use of extra yarns which are woven into the fabric at a certain spot then allowed to float over the fabric to the next spot. The float threads are later trimmed but often are allowed to protrude from the surface of the fabric as part of the design.

Cloque/ Blister fabric: A general term to describe fabrics with a blister (pucker) on the surface. The blister may be created by several different methods such as printing with caustic soda or other chemicals, by weaving together yarns under different tension, or by weaving together yarns with different shrinkage properties.

Cluny lace: A heavy bobbin lace using thick yarns usually of cotton or linen. Most often done in geometric patterns . Used for curtains doilies and trim for apparel.

Coarse : having thick yarns. 

Coated: refers to the application of material such as plastic resin, wax, oil, varnish or lacquer to the surface of the fabric . Application methods include dipping, spraying, brushing, calendering or knife coating . Coating is often applied to make a fabric water repellent or waterproof but may be done simply to alter the hand or appearance of the fabric. Polyurethane, acrylic and PVC resins are common types of coating.

Combed: refers to a process in the manufacture of cotton and other staple yarns. The fiber is combed to remove foreign matter and the shorter, undesirable fibers, leaving longer, more desirable fibers that become straightened & aligned in parallel before spinning into yarn. Combed yarns are finer, cleaner and more even than those that are not combed.

Compact: refers to a tight, dense fabric with a firm hand.

Conversational: whimsical designs or designs with a theme.

Cool: a smooth, slick, hand generally associated with synthetics.

Coolmax brand: A Du Pont brand of polyester with good wicking qualities allowing for better moisture evaporation . Used in activewear.

Corded: 1. a fabric with a surface rib effect resulting from the use of a heavier or plied yarn together with finer yarns. 2. A yarn made from two or more finer yarns twisted together.

Cordura brand: A Du Pont brand of air textured nylon yarn. Used in luggage and outerwear.

Corduroy: A strong, durable, woven fabric characterized by vertical cut pile stripes or cords with a velvet- like nap. Corduroy is classified by the number of wales or cords to the inch. It is traditionally of cotton but may be cotton blends or other fibers as well. It is common in men's women's and children's apparel especially trousers.

Cotton-like: refers to a fabric that feels like cotton.

Covert: a medium to heavy twill fabric with a contrast in color between the twill line and the ground . Usually has a mottled or flecked appearance caused by using a warp yarn with 2 or more colors twisted together. The filling generally is of a single color.

Crash: A coarse woven fabric with a rough surface, made with thick uneven yarns. Used for table linens , draperies, backings.

Crepe: A fabric characterized by an all over crinkled, pebbly, or puckered surface. The appearance may be a result of the use of high twist yarns , embossing , chemical treatment or a crepe weave.

Crepe-back satin: A two faced fabric in which one side is crepe and the other satin. Also called satin-back crepe.

Crepe de chine: A lightweight plain weave fabric usually of silk or man made filament yarns with a slight crepe texture produces by using high twist yarns . Used in blouses and dresses.

Crepey: Refers to a fabric with a pebble like texture.

Crepon/Yoryu: a fabric with a pleat-like crinkle effect in the warp ( lengthwise) direction of the fabric, made with high twist yarns.

Cretonne: A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a neutral ground and brightly colored floral designs, similar to chintz but with a dull finish and sometimes heavier. Used for draperies and upholstery.

Crewel: a type of embroidery using a loosely twisted 2 ply worsted yarn.

Crinkled: an uneven, wrinkle, or puckered effect on the fabric surface which can be created by a variety of mechanical or chemical finishes, or through the use of high twist yarns.

Crinoline: A stiff, open weave fabric, usually heavily sized. Used mainly as lining or interlining.

Crisp: describes fabrics with a smooth, clean surface, good body, and a relatively firm hand which may make noise when rustled.

Crochet lace: Lace handmade with a crochet hook usually medallion patterns on a mesh ground.

Cross cut : refers to a corduroy fabric which has the pile cut in a weftwise direction, forming squares or rectangles on the surface.

Cross dyed: A method of coloring fabric made with strategically placed yarns of 2 or more different fibers. A pre-planned effect becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in different dye baths, one for each of the types of yarn. For example a predominately rayon fabric may have a polyester yarn woven into it in a stripe pattern then dyed in a bath to which only the rayon is sensitive. The polyester stripe will be made to appear since it remains undyed. The stripe may then be colored by dyeing it again in a bath of a different color to which only the polyester is sensitive. Heather effects may be achieved by mixing more than one fiber in a single yarn then cross dyeing.

Cross dyed & overprinted : a cross dyed fabric which has also had a design printed on it.

Crushed: a finish that creates a planned irregular disturbance on the surface of the fabric, usually by mechanical means.

Cut Velvet: jacquard fabric consisting of a velvet design on a plain ground. Also called beaded velvet. Used in evening wear and home furnishings.

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Dacron: Du Pont brand of polyester fiber.

Damask: A firm, reversible jacquard weave fabric. Used in table linen, upholstery, draperies evening wear. Commonly made of cotton linen silk or rayon or blends of these fibers.

Deco: refers to designs which suggest the Art Deco style of the 20's and 30's, characterized by bold outlines and streamlined shapes.

Delicate: referring to a fine, light hand with good drape.

Denim: a firm 2/1 or 3/1 right hand twill usually with a colored warp and white or natural weft . Commonly made of cotton or cotton blends in a variety of weights.

Diamond: referring to designs dominated by diamond shapes.

Dimity: A lightweight, sheer, plain weave fabric characterized by lengthwise ribs. Sometimes also with crosswise ribs forming a check. Commonly used for curtains, aprons.

Discharge printed: A dyed fabric is printed with a chemical paste that bleaches out or "discharges" the color to allow white patterns on a dyed ground. By adding a dye to the paste that is not affected by the chemical it is possible to replace the discharged ground color with another color.

Distressed: Describes a finish that disturbs the surface of the fabric, giving it a used, beaten, or uneven appearance. Often done through sand or stone washing after the fabric has been pigment dyed.

District check: A category of small check designs, sometimes with contrasting overplaids, originally of Scottish origin. Glen plaids are part of this category.

Dobby: 1. a fabric with small, repeating geometric patterns woven into the surface. 2. An attachment to a loom which controls the harness allowing the weaving of these geometric patterns.

Doeskin: a soft fabric with a low, napped finish on one side.

Donegal: a tweed fabric with thick colored slubs or nubs . Originally a hand-woven woolen fabric made in Donegal Ireland.

Dope/solution dyed: manufactured fibers which have been colored by dyeing the polymer solution before it is extruded & spun into yarn.

Dot: a design dominated by circular spots, which may be of any size, printed or woven into the fabric. Small dots are often called pin dots; medium to large dots may be referred to as aspirin dots, coin dots or polka dots.

Dotted swiss: a sheer fabric often a lawn or batiste, usually of cotton or cotton blend, with a small dot pattern. The dots are usually woven into the fabric but may be flocked or printed . Used for curtains, children's clothes, dresses.

Double cloth: a fabric consisting of 2 layers woven together on the same loom . The fabrics may be held together with binder threads or interwoven . The 2 layers often are of different patterns, colors or weaves . Used for coatings, sportswear, blankets, upholstery.

Double face: A reversible 2 layer fabric, usually with a different color or pattern on each side. Double face is usually a double cloth but some reversible bonded fabrics may be referred to as double face.

Double knit: a weft knit, double layered fabric produced on a machine with 2 sets of needles. Double knits are thicker have more body and are more stable than single knits. As they curl, sag, and shrink less than single knits , they are more suitable for sportswear and tailored garments. They usually are reversible.

Doupioni: 1 the irregular, uneven, rough silk taken from double cocoons or interlocked cocoons which are reeled together. 2. fabrics with characteristic slubs made from doupioni silk or made to imitate doupioni silk.

Downproof: A fabric which resists the penetration of down. The fabric may be closely woven to be downproof by nature or may be cired or coated to make it downproof.

Drapey: refers to a fabric with good drape, that is, one that is supple and falls easily into graceful folds when hung or tailored.

Drill: a strong, medium to heavy weight 2x1 or 3x1 warp faced twill usually of cotton. It is similar to denim but drill is usually piece dyed.

Drop stitch: refers to a knit fabric with an open stripe design at set intervals made by removing some of the needles.

Dry: refers to a fabric that feels lacking in surface moisture or natural lubrication . Cottons are often said to feel dry.

Duchesse lace: A guipure lace characterized by floral and leaf designs with very little ground . Heavier threads are intertwined to give raised texture. Used in bridal veils and gowns.

Duck: see Canvas/ Duck.

Dull: refers to fabric with little or no luster on the surface.

Duvetyn: medium to heavy weight twill fabric with a soft, short nap covering the weave. It has a sueded, velvety hand. Originally made of wool or wool blends but may be of cotton or other fibers . Used in suits, coats, millinery.