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Abstract:
refers
to a design in the abstract style, i.e. one that
represents a general form and not an accurate
representation of a subject.
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Accordion:
1x1
rib knit alternating with a 2x2 rib.
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Acrylic
coated:
A fabric which has been coated, generally on the
back, with acrylic resin to make it waterproof
or downproof.
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Albatross:
A
lightweight, plain weave fabric traditionally of
wool or wool blends with a napped, fleecy
surface . So named because the texture resembles
the breast of an albatross. Usually light in
color- used in infant's wear , sleep wear.
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Alencon
lace:A
needlepoint lace on a fine net ground
characterized by a heavy thread (cordonnet)
outlining the design. Usually machine made but
sometimes the cordonnet is inserted by hand.
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Alligator
skin: A
design, printed or embossed, that suggests the
characteristic texture of an alligator.
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Allover
lace: general
term for a wide lace in which the pattern covers
the full width of the fabric . It is generally
sold and cut in the same way as non lace
fabrics.
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Animal
skin: refers
to a design which suggests the skin of an animal
. Leopard, tiger, zebra and giraffe are popular
motifs.
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Anti
bacterial: finish
that makes a fabric resistant to the growth of
bacteria.
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Anti
Pill: A
finish applied to fleece which involves shearing
the surface so that the fabric is less likely to
pill
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Antique
Satin: a
reversible fabric - one side looks like satin
and the other side like shantung. It often has a
dark warp which enhances the texture. Often used
for draperies.
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Antique
Taffeta:
A stiff plain weave fabric , often iridescent,
with a slubbed weft. May be of silk or
synthetics.
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Antron:
brand of nylon fiber trademarked by the Du Pont
Co.
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Argentan
lace: a
needlepoint lace on a net ground similar to
alencon lace but on a larger net and without the
cordonnet outline thread of alencon.
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Argyle:
A
design of various colored diamond shaped blocks
on a single colored ground, usually crossed by
lines in a diamond shape. Popular in sweaters
and hosiery.
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Art/Embroidery
linen: a
balanced plain weave fabric usually of linen or
linen/cotton . It is made from smooth round
yarns (not flattened by calendering) . Used as a
base for embroidered table linen, pillowcases,
also in drapes, slipcovers and some apparel.
Also called embroidery crash.
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Astrakhan:a
thick woven or knitted cloth often of wool with
a surface of loops or curls, imitating the coat
of an Astrakhan lamb. Also called poodle cloth.
Used for coats and trimming.
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Atlas:
A warp knit fabric in which a set of yarns
shifts diagonally one wale per course for
several courses , then returns to the original
position.
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Awning
stripe: 1.
a design of wide even stripes 2.
a heavy canvas fabric with this design. May be
yarn dyed or printed.
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Balanced
Stripes: a
design of stripes that are even in width and
spacing.
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Bandanna:
a
print design characterized by white or brightly
colored motifs on a dark or bright ground, most
often red or navy. Done by discharge or resist
printing but originally done in India by tie
dyeing. 2. a fabric, usually cotton with such a
design.
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Barathea:
An
indistinct twill or broken rib- usually a
twilled hopsack weave- with a fine textured
,slightly pebbled surface . Often of silk or
silk blended with wool, Used for neckties,
women's fine suits and coats men's and women's
evening wear.
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Bark
Cloth: Originally
referred to fabric made from the bark of trees.
Now the term is used to describe fabric with a
surface texture resembling tree bark.
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Barrier
fabric:
fabrics that are barriers to dust , dust mites
and associated allergens.
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Basket
stitch: A
knit construction with mostly purl loops in the
pattern courses to give a basket weave
look
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Basket
weave/Hopsack: A
variation of plain weave in which 2 or more
yarns in both the warp and weft are woven side
by side to resemble a basket.
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Batik:
a traditional Indonesian dyeing process in which
portions of fabric are coated with wax and
therefore resist the dye. The process can be
repeated to achieve multi-color designs. Fabric
usually has a veined appearance where the dye
has gone through the cracks in the wax.
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Batiste:
1. A sheer, fine, soft, light weight, plain
weave fabric usually of combed cotton or polyester/cotton.
It often has lengthwise streaks due to the use
of 2 ply yarns. Used for shirts blouses dresses
nightwear and lingerie. 2. A lightweight smooth
all wool fabric. 3.A sheer silk fabric.
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Beaded:
Referring
to a fabric embellished with beads.
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Beading
lace: a
machine made lace with a row of openwork holes
designed for the insertion of a decorative
ribbon.
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Beaver
Cloth: a
high quality, heavy, soft wool cloth with a
deep, smooth nap. Used in overcoats.
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Bedford
Cord:
a woven fabric constructed to show pronounced
rounded cords in the warp direction with sunken
lines between them. Used in trousers, uniforms,
hats, upholstery.
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Beetled
:a
finishing process in which a fabric usually
linen or cotton is pounded to produce a hard
flat surface with a sheen.
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Bemberg:
brand of cupramonium rayon.
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Bengaline:
a durable plain weave fabric characterized by
widthwise cords formed by using fine warp yarns
and course weft yarns, Used in dresses, coats,
suits, ribbons, draperies.
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Binche
lace: A
lace in which the lace motifs are appliquéd to
a machine made net ground. Originally made in
Binche Belgium.
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Birdseye:
1.
a general term for a fabric with a surface
texture of small, uniform spots that suggest
bird's eyes. Can be woven or knit. 2
A design that suggests a bird's eyes.
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Blanket
plaid: a
large vividly colored plaid design such as those
often found on blankets.
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Bleached:
Chemical
treatment to remove impurities and whiten the
fabric. It can be done either in preparation for
dyeing and finishing or to obtain clean whites
in finished fabric.
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Blitz:
A light to medium weight woven fabric with a
filament warp and spun weft. Often has a very
fine crosswise rib. Common blends are
acetate/rayon and polyester/rayon.
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Block
printed: A
hand printing method using wood, metal, or
linoleum blocks. The design is carved on the
blocks , one block for each color. The dye is
applied to the block which is pressed or
hammered against the fabric.
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Blotch
print:
Refers to a print in which a large area of
uniform color is printed. The printed ground is
referred to as the blotch.
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Bobbin
lace: a
handmade lace using a pillow to hold pins around
which thread is intertwined. Bobbins are used to
hold and feed the thread. Also called pillow
lace or bobbinet.
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Boiled
Wool: a
wool or wool blend fabric, woven or knitted
which has been given a course, crepey texture by
heavy felting or by putting it in a high
temperature bath.
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Bonded
:
A fabric composed of 2 or more layers joined
together with an adhesive ,resin, foam, or
fusible membrane.
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Border:
a
design placed along the edge of the fabric or
engineered in such a way that it will fall on
the edge of the finished product. Border designs
are frequently used in skirts and dresses.
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Botanical:
referring
to designs dominated by motifs depicting plant
life.
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Boucle
1.a
fancy yarn with an irregular pattern of curls
and loops 2.
A
fabric made from boucle yarn.
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Bourdon
lace: A
machine made lace on a mesh ground usually in a
scroll design outlined with a heavy cord.
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Bourette:
a
fancy plied yarn with nubs and knots of another
color.
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Bourrelet:
A double knit fabric with a rippled , corded
texture running horizontally.
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Breathable
coated :
Refers to a coating that repels water but allows
water vapor (thus perspiration) to pass through,
allowing garments to be comfortable and
waterproof . Used in garments for active wear
and winter sports.
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Breton
lace: Lace
embroidered on an open net with heavy often
brightly colored yarn. May be made by hand or
machine. Said to have originated in the Breton
region of France.
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Broadcloth:
A fine tightly woven plain weave fabric with a
faint rib . Usually of cotton or cotton blend
but can be of any fiber. Frequently used in
men's shirts. 2. a fine soft woven wool fabric,
plain or twill weave, with a smooth napped face.
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Brocade:
A
heavy rich- looking jacquard fabric with
contrasting surfaces or a multicolor design .
Used in upholstery , draperies evening
wear.
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Brocatelle
a
jacquard fabric similar to brocade with the
design in a raised appearance from being formed
with a satin or twill weave. Used in draperies
and upholstery.
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Broken
twill: A
general term for twill weave fabrics in which
the twill line changes direction.
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Brushed/Napped:
A
finishing process to raise a nap on surface of
the fabric using wire brushes or other abrasive
materials.
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Brushstroke:
Refers
to a print style in which color looks as if it
had been applied with a brush.
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Brussels
lace: May
be a bobbin or needlepoint lace usually on a
machine made ground. Sometimes designs are
appliquéd on the ground. As Brussels Belgium is
important in the history of lace-making, many
different types of lace are called Brussels
lace.
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Buckram
: A stiff , open weave, coarse fabric often used
as an interlining to give a garment shape. Also
used in hats, bookbinding.
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Buckskin:
A
heavy satin weave fabric, often of fine Merino
wool, with a smooth face
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Buffalo
check: a
bold check pattern with blocks of 2 or 3
contrasting colors. Often red and black in a
twill weave.
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Bunting
: A plain, drapey, loosely woven fabric most
often used for flags and decoration. Also called
banner cloth.
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Burlap/Hessian:
A coarse open fabric made of jute used for
upholstery lining and bagging . When dyed or
printed it is used in drapery, wall coverings,
upholstery.
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Burn
out:
A fabric made of 2 fibers then printed with a
chemical that dissolves one of the fibers thus
creating a design .Often done on velvet.
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Butcher's
Linen: A
strong, heavy, plain weave linen fabric with
uneven, thick and thin yarns in both warp and
weft - often used in tablecloths and aprons.
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Cable
stitch: A
knit fabric stitch that produces a design that
looks like a heavy cord- common in sweaters and
hosiery.
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Calendered:
A flat, smooth, glossy finish applied to the
fabric by passing it through heavy rollers under
pressure and usually heat. Cire, chintz, moire,
& glazing are examples of calendered
finishes.
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Calico:
A light weight, plain weave fabric usually
cotton or cotton blend typically printed with
small, all over, brightly colored designs. Used
frequently in aprons, quilts & curtains.
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Cambric:
A plain weave, traditionally light weight cotton
fabric with a luster on the surface . Used for
handkerchiefs underwear, shirts, aprons ,
tablecloths.
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Candlewick:
A
tufted pile fabric with a fuzzy surface that
looks like chenille . It is made by looping a
heavy plied yarn on a muslin base then cutting
the loops. Used for bedspreads, robes,
draperies.
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Canton
flannel:
A heavy, warm, strong cotton or cotton blend
fabric with a twill face and a brushed back .
Used for nightwear, underwear, gloves, linings.
Originally produced in Canton China.
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Canvas
/Duck: A
strong, firm, tightly woven, durable fabric
usually of cotton but sometimes of linen, hemp
or other fibers. It is usually plain weave but
sometimes with a crosswise rib. It is produced
in a variety of weights & used in a variety
of products such as tents, awnings, sails,
upholstery, footwear, jackets, trousers.
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Cape
net:
a stiff heavy net which can be shaped when wet
and holds that shape when dried . Used for
hats.
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Carded:
A yarn in which the fibers have been partially
straightened and cleaned prior to spinning. The
yarn is generally coarser and more uneven than a
combed yarn.
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Cardigan
-full:
A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with 2 sets of
needles There is alternate knitting and tucking
on one course then tucking and knitting on the
next course. The fabric has the same look on
both sides as every wale on both sides has both
a held loop and a tuck loop. Also called polka
rib.
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Cardigan-
half: A
variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with knitting
& tucking in alternate courses on one set of
needles. The construction on the back is the
reverse of the face . Also called royal rib.
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Casement
cloth:
a general term for sheer, lightweight, open
weave fabrics used for curtains and backing for
heavy drapery.
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Cationic:
A type of dye used on acrylic or on modified
polyester or modified nylon yarn . Often used to
achieve cross dyed effects: Cationic dyeable
yarn is woven in a pattern with regular yarn in
the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by
dyeing the fabric in 2 baths, one for each of
the types of yarn.
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Cavalry
twill: A
sturdy woven fabric with a steep pronounced
double twill line . Often of cotton or wool but
may be any fiber.
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Challis:
a
soft, lightweight, plain weave fabric with good
drape. Often used for printed dresses and
skirts. Most commonly wool or rayon but may be
of cotton or other spun fibers.
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Chambray:
A
lightweight, plain weave fabric, with a colored
warp and white weft . Usually plain but may be
in stripes, checks, or other patterns. Often
used in shirts, dresses children's
clothes.
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Chameleon:
a
3 tone effect that changes with the angle of
view . It is achieved by using a warp yarn of
one color and double weft yarns of 2 different
colors. It is often found in taffetas , poplins
or failles of silk or made made filament
yarns
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Chamois-like:
a
hand suggesting the soft pliable leather from
the skin of the chamois goat.
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Chantilly
lace: A
bobbin lace on a fine net ground characterized
by delicate motifs of scrolls, vines, branches,
and flowers outlined by a flat (cordonnet) yarn.
Often in black. Originally made in Chantilly
France.
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Charmeuse:
A
soft lightweight woven satin fabric with good
drape. It is made with high twist yarns, has a
semi-lustrous face and a dull back . Often used
for blouses, intimate apparel.
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Check:
a
small pattern of squares or rectangles. It may
be printed, yarn dyed , cross dyed or woven into
the fabric ( as a dobby or jacquard).
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Cheesecloth:
see
Gauze/Cheesecloth.
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Chenille:
1.
A yarn with fuzzy pile protruding from all sides
. It has a velvety caterpillar -like appearance
. ( The term chenille is derived from the French
word for caterpillar) 2. A fabric made with
chenille yarn.
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Cheviot:
1.A
rough surfaced fabric of wool with a heavy nap.
Used for coating. 2.
A loosely woven tweed fabric with a shaggy
texture . Cheviot was originally made from the
wool of the cheviot sheep in the hills at the
bordering England and Scotland.
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Chevron
.
a design which incorporates herringbone elements
of zigzag stripes or joined V's
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Chiffon:
A
lightweight , sheer, plain weave fabric with a
dull surface, a soft hand , and good drape. It
is made with fine high twisted yarns and has an
even or close to even number of threads per inch
in the warp and weft. Originally made in silk
but now found in polyester and other man-made
filament yarns. Used in dresses blouses,
scarves, veils.
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Children's:
refers
to designs suitable for the children's
market.
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Chinchilla:
A thick, heavy, pile fabric with surface curls
or nubs, originally made to suggest chinchilla
fur . It is often double faced. It may be woven
or knit and is often used as coating.
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Chino:
a sturdy, medium weight, twill fabric usually of
cotton or a cotton blend. It has often been used
for summer weight military uniforms, sportswear
and work clothes. It is often found in khaki and
tan colors.
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Chinoiserie:
a
old Chinese decorative style still used in
textiles.
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Chintz:
1.
A glazed solid or printed fabric usually of
cotton or a cotton blend 2.
A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a
multicolor print which may or may not be glazed.
If it is unglazed it is called cretonne.
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Chirimen:
a
Japanese term describing a dull crepe fabric
made with a course yarn. Originally of silk but
now found in man made filaments such as
polyester.
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Circular
knit:
refers to fabrics knit on a circular knitting
machine, i.e. one which has its needles arranged
in a circle thus producing the fabric in tubular
form . The fabrics may be sold tubular or slit
and sold open width. A circular knitting machine
may be used to produce full width fabrics or
narrow shaped components such as for hosiery.
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Cire:
a
finishing process that produces a high gloss on
the surface on the fabric by passing it through
heavy rollers (calendering) . Fabrics made of
thermoplastic fibers like nylon or polyester are
cired by calendering with heat and pressure
alone. Other fabrics like rayons or silks are
calendered with wax or other compounds.
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Clip
dot /Clip spot:
a design effect created on a woven fabric by the
use of extra yarns which are woven into the
fabric at a certain spot then allowed to float
over the fabric to the next spot. The float
threads are later trimmed but often are allowed
to protrude from the surface of the fabric as
part of the design.
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Cloque/
Blister fabric: A
general term to describe fabrics with a blister
(pucker) on the surface. The blister may be
created by several different methods such as
printing with caustic soda or other chemicals,
by weaving together yarns under different
tension, or by weaving together yarns with
different shrinkage properties.
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Cluny
lace:
A heavy bobbin lace using thick yarns usually of
cotton or linen. Most often done in geometric
patterns . Used for curtains doilies and trim
for apparel.
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Coarse
: having thick yarns.
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Coated:
refers
to the application of material such as plastic
resin, wax, oil, varnish or lacquer to the
surface of the fabric . Application methods
include dipping, spraying, brushing, calendering
or knife coating . Coating is often applied to
make a fabric water repellent or waterproof but
may be done simply to alter the hand or
appearance of the fabric. Polyurethane, acrylic
and PVC resins are common types of coating.
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Combed:
refers
to a process in the manufacture of cotton and
other staple yarns. The fiber is combed to
remove foreign matter and the shorter,
undesirable fibers, leaving longer, more
desirable fibers that become straightened &
aligned in parallel before spinning into yarn.
Combed yarns are finer, cleaner and more even
than those that are not combed.
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Compact:
refers to a tight, dense fabric with a firm
hand.
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Conversational:
whimsical
designs or designs with a theme.
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Cool:
a
smooth, slick, hand generally associated with
synthetics.
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Coolmax
brand:
A
Du Pont brand of polyester with good wicking
qualities allowing for better moisture
evaporation . Used in activewear.
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Corded:
1.
a fabric with a surface rib effect resulting
from the use of a heavier or plied yarn together
with finer yarns. 2.
A yarn made from two or more finer yarns twisted
together.
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Cordura
brand: A
Du Pont brand of air textured nylon yarn. Used
in luggage and outerwear.
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Corduroy:
A
strong, durable, woven fabric characterized by
vertical cut pile stripes or cords with a
velvet- like nap. Corduroy is classified by the
number of wales or cords to the inch. It is
traditionally of cotton but may be cotton blends
or other fibers as well. It is common in men's
women's and children's apparel especially
trousers.
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Cotton-like:
refers
to a fabric that feels like cotton.
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Covert:
a medium to heavy twill fabric with a contrast
in color between the twill line and the ground .
Usually has a mottled or flecked appearance
caused by using a warp yarn with 2 or more
colors twisted together. The filling generally
is of a single color.
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Crash:
A coarse woven fabric with a rough surface, made
with thick uneven yarns. Used for table linens ,
draperies, backings.
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Crepe:
A fabric characterized by an all over crinkled,
pebbly, or puckered surface. The appearance may
be a result of the use of high twist yarns ,
embossing , chemical treatment or a crepe weave.
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Crepe-back
satin: A
two faced fabric in which one side is crepe and
the other satin. Also called satin-back crepe.
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Crepe
de chine: A
lightweight plain weave fabric usually of silk
or man made filament yarns with a slight crepe
texture produces by using high twist yarns .
Used in blouses and dresses.
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Crepey:
Refers
to a fabric with a pebble like texture.
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Crepon/Yoryu:
a
fabric with a pleat-like crinkle effect in the
warp ( lengthwise) direction of the fabric, made
with high twist yarns.
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Cretonne:
A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a
neutral ground and brightly colored floral
designs, similar to chintz but with a dull
finish and sometimes heavier. Used for draperies
and upholstery.
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Crewel:
a
type of embroidery using a loosely twisted 2 ply
worsted yarn.
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Crinkled:
an
uneven, wrinkle, or puckered effect on the
fabric surface which can be created by a variety
of mechanical or chemical finishes, or through
the use of high twist yarns.
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Crinoline:
A
stiff, open weave fabric, usually heavily sized.
Used mainly as lining or interlining.
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Crisp:
describes
fabrics with a smooth, clean surface, good body,
and a relatively firm hand which may make noise
when rustled.
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Crochet
lace:
Lace handmade with a crochet hook usually
medallion patterns on a mesh ground.
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Cross
cut : refers
to a corduroy fabric which has the pile cut in a
weftwise direction, forming squares or
rectangles on the surface.
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Cross
dyed:
A method of coloring fabric made with
strategically placed yarns of 2 or more
different fibers. A pre-planned effect becomes
visible by dyeing the fabric in different dye
baths, one for each of the types of yarn. For
example a predominately rayon fabric may have a
polyester yarn woven into it in a stripe pattern
then dyed in a bath to which only the rayon is
sensitive. The polyester stripe will be made to
appear since it remains undyed. The stripe may
then be colored by dyeing it again in a bath of
a different color to which only the polyester is
sensitive. Heather effects may be achieved by
mixing more than one fiber in a single yarn then
cross dyeing.
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Cross
dyed & overprinted : a
cross dyed fabric which has also had a design
printed on it.
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Crushed:
a
finish that creates a planned irregular
disturbance on the surface of the fabric,
usually by mechanical means.
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Cut
Velvet: jacquard
fabric consisting of a velvet design on a plain
ground. Also called beaded velvet. Used in
evening wear and home furnishings.
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Dacron:
Du Pont brand of polyester fiber.
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Damask:
A
firm, reversible jacquard weave fabric. Used in
table linen, upholstery, draperies evening wear.
Commonly made of cotton linen silk or rayon or
blends of these fibers.
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Deco:
refers
to designs which suggest the Art Deco style of
the 20's and 30's, characterized by bold
outlines and streamlined shapes.
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Delicate:
referring
to a fine, light hand with good drape.
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Denim:
a
firm 2/1 or 3/1 right hand twill usually with a
colored warp and white or natural weft .
Commonly made of cotton or cotton blends in a
variety of weights.
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Diamond:
referring
to designs dominated by diamond shapes.
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Dimity:
A lightweight, sheer, plain weave fabric
characterized by lengthwise ribs. Sometimes also
with crosswise ribs forming a check. Commonly
used for curtains, aprons.
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Discharge
printed: A
dyed fabric is printed with a chemical paste
that bleaches out or "discharges" the
color to allow white patterns on a dyed ground.
By adding a dye to the paste that is not
affected by the chemical it is possible to
replace the discharged ground color with another
color.
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Distressed:
Describes
a finish that disturbs the surface of the
fabric, giving it a used, beaten, or uneven
appearance. Often done through sand or stone
washing after the fabric has been pigment dyed.
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District
check: A
category of small check designs, sometimes with
contrasting overplaids, originally of Scottish
origin. Glen plaids are part of this category.
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Dobby:
1.
a fabric with small, repeating geometric
patterns woven into the surface. 2.
An attachment to a loom which controls the
harness allowing the weaving of these geometric
patterns.
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Doeskin:
a
soft fabric with a low, napped finish on one
side.
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Donegal:
a
tweed fabric with thick colored slubs or nubs .
Originally a hand-woven woolen fabric made in
Donegal Ireland.
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Dope/solution
dyed: manufactured
fibers which have been colored by dyeing the
polymer solution before it is extruded &
spun into yarn.
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Dot:
a
design dominated by circular spots, which may be
of any size, printed or woven into the fabric.
Small dots are often called pin dots; medium to
large dots may be referred to as aspirin dots,
coin dots or polka dots.
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Dotted
swiss: a
sheer fabric often a lawn or batiste, usually of
cotton or cotton blend, with a small dot
pattern. The dots are usually woven into the
fabric but may be flocked or printed . Used for
curtains, children's clothes, dresses.
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Double
cloth: a
fabric consisting of 2 layers woven together on
the same loom . The fabrics may be held together
with binder threads or interwoven . The 2 layers
often are of different patterns, colors or
weaves . Used for coatings, sportswear,
blankets, upholstery.
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Double
face: A
reversible 2 layer fabric, usually with a
different color or pattern on each side. Double
face is usually a double cloth but some
reversible bonded fabrics may be referred to as
double face.
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Double
knit:
a weft knit, double layered fabric produced on a
machine with 2 sets of needles. Double knits are
thicker have more body and are more stable than
single knits. As they curl, sag, and shrink less
than single knits , they are more suitable for
sportswear and tailored garments. They usually
are reversible.
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Doupioni:
1
the irregular, uneven, rough silk taken from
double cocoons or interlocked cocoons which are
reeled together. 2.
fabrics with characteristic slubs made from
doupioni silk or made to imitate doupioni silk.
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Downproof:
A
fabric which resists the penetration of down.
The fabric may be closely woven to be downproof
by nature or may be cired or coated to make it
downproof.
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Drapey:
refers
to a fabric with good drape, that is, one that
is supple and falls easily into graceful folds
when hung or tailored.
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Drill:
a
strong, medium to heavy weight 2x1 or 3x1 warp
faced twill usually of cotton. It is similar to
denim but drill is usually piece dyed.
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Drop
stitch:
refers to a knit fabric with an open stripe
design at set intervals made by removing some of
the needles.
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Dry:
refers
to a fabric that feels lacking in surface
moisture or natural lubrication . Cottons are
often said to feel dry.
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Duchesse
lace: A
guipure lace characterized by floral and leaf
designs with very little ground . Heavier
threads are intertwined to give raised texture.
Used in bridal veils and gowns.
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Duck:
see Canvas/
Duck.
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Dull:
refers to fabric with little or no luster on the
surface.
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Duvetyn:
medium
to heavy weight twill fabric with a soft, short
nap covering the weave. It has a sueded, velvety
hand. Originally made of wool or wool blends but
may be of cotton or other fibers . Used in
suits, coats, millinery.
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